What started as a conversation between a chemical engineering student and an artisan from Nariño has turned into a patented process that produces high quality hats and reduces risks to the community.
A quarter of the population of Sandoná, Colombia, some 7000 artisans, make iraca palm hats, with 300,000 units produced per year, according to the official designation of origin of the hats in 2010.
Now, producers are looking for more export markets, but face a problem: the traditional process involves bleaching the iraca palm fibres with sulphur and hydrogen peroxide at high concentrations, which has affected the health of those who make these handicrafts and affects the environment.
Luisa María Gómez Cabrera, a Nariño-born undergraduate chemical engineering graduate from the Universidad del Valle (Univalle), explained that instead of these toxic chemicals, researchers discovered a process that involves a low concentration of sodium bisulfite.
"The hats produced by our patented process are whiter, absorb less ultraviolet rays, and eliminate the use of sulphur, improving the health of artisans and the environment," Gómez said, adding that the goal is to give artisans free access to the patent.
Photo: Processing of Iraca palm fibres. Credit: Luisa María Gómez Cabrera
The Research
In September 2023, the Colombian Superintendent of Industry and Commerce approved a patent related to the technical field of treatment processes of natural fibres used in industrial and artisanal processes, in particular, with fibre bleaching methods.
The researchers explained that the present invention discloses a method of bleaching vegetable fibres used in industrial and artisanal processes, using mild oxidising agents such as sodium bisulphite and sodium nitrate.
Marly Alejandra Urbano Mutiz, a graduate in Chemical Engineering from Univalle, and researcher on the project said that the origin of her interest was to impact the population of Nariño, in order to improve their economic and health conditions, through the knowledge acquired at Univalle.
"The importance of the patent makes me personally proud because all the work done in the academy was successful, allowing me to exalt the contribution of professors, artisan community, colleagues and directors of the research," said Urbano.
Professor Natali Lorena Mena Guerrero, who served as co-director of the degree work, together with Professor Fiderman Machuca from the School of Chemical Engineering explained that improving quality was also important.
"A hat that is whiter, more UV resistant and lasts longer is worth more in the market," said Mena.
Mr. Alveiro Melo Fajardo, artisan and entrepreneur of Sombreros Sandoná Hats, who is not involved with the project, explained that nowadays it is necessary to use masks and protective suits, because the chemicals are strong.
"It is essential to improve quality; in Ecuador, hats break more easily," said Melo Fajardo, adding that alternatives such as environmental benefits can be considered an additional "bonus".
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Foto: Luisa María Gómez Cabrera Crédito: Luisa Maria Gómez.
Community benefits
Mena explained that the Universidad del Valle is an innovator in finding solutions that improve the quality of life for communities in southwestern Colombia and around the world.
"For me, something that motivated me a lot to improve the quality of artisans and take care of the environment; it opens up spaces for us to work on real problems in real communities," said Mena, adding that the university's support for artisans is very important.
"Most people in the region don't have higher education, so they never had control of the chemicals they are using," Mena said.
Gómez and Urbano are excited that the patent will have a positive impact on the communities.
"With the patent, they hope that many other communities will be able to have a technified process and have a positive impact on their lives, and it would also be great if it could be implemented in countries where this process is part of their economy," said Urbano.
If you are interested in contacting the researcher or learning more about the project, please write to the Communications Office Faculty of Engineering: comunicaingenieria(at)correounivalle.edu.co
Cover photo: Weaving of Iraca palm fibres. Credit: Luisa María Gómez Cabrera
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